Countries Visited - Scroll down for Some Recent fieldnotes…
Upcoming Logs: Nyerere - Nov 2023
KATAVI: BACK OF BEYOND
It is often said that there is nothing like being the only visitor in a place; it lends such a different feel. During our time in Katavi though, we were the only guests in the whole 1,700sq mile National Park - which bordered on the surreal! Off-season adventures to such remote places can be risky with weather and travel conditions, but this place was pure magic and 100% worth the tribulation spent getting there. I was very sad to hop the three bush flights back towards civilisation, even though we had the fun job of clearing an elephant herd off the airstrip first.
RUAHA: EXPLORING THE PRIDELAND
There are a great many lion roaming this 17,000sq mile zone. In fact, one in every ten lions in all of Africa lives in Greater Ruaha. Some prides can grow up to 30 individuals and the sheer volume of prey species it takes to maintain these apex predators is vast. As a fleshy human visitor, one’s forebrain questions the wisdom of sleeping in fenceless, tented bush camps… but as the local pride fills the night with their roaring you sleep just fine knowing your candlelit tent has a tin whistle provided for safety. Eeek.
KHAO YAI: ROLLING JUNGLE THUNDER
Trekking though tropical jungle is one of my favourite activities. The ‘trial by sweat’ is well rewarded as you can observe such a high number of different species peacefully going about their business. Previously, I’ve seen this jungle in extremes - both flood and drought, and I couldn’t wait to get back in there. My guide and I covered a lot of ground on foot and we had some really intense experiences with the fauna who were rejoicing in the first of the late rains.
HIMALAYA: ABODE OF SNOW
In Ancient Sanscrit, Himalaya literally means ‘(Alaya) Abode of (Hima) Snow… For all my opinion is worth; these tremendous peaks did not disappoint. Despite warming temperatures and receding glaciers, their majesty was undeniable. I certainly had my highest altitude animal encounters up there. The energy it took to carry (and use) full photography kit in low oxygen and at altitudes over 17,500ft was harrowing - especially the controlled breathing! Sorry if I ever bore you about this trip face to face, if it ever happens expect the word ‘majestic’ to be used a lot.
YALA: LIKE NO OTHER
The wildlands of Yala National Park hold the highest population density of leopard in the world. It is a huge old coastal reserve whose dense bush tapers down to fresh, unspoilt Indian Ocean beach. The biggest draw was the Ceylon Leopard (Panthera pardus kotiya), an endangered subspecies found only in Sri Lanka. As the heartless Easter Sunday bombings happened in Colombo, the South emptied of tourists leaving just me, my guides… and the animals, who were noticeably more relaxed; unaware of the carnage in the North.
NAMIB: SANDS OF TIME
At 55 million years old, the Namib (or ‘vast place’ in Nama), is the oldest desert on Earth. As you wander the endless expanse it can feel like you are removed from all else... sand dunes like mountains, canyons scarring the martian-like surface, desert adapted animals and some of the brightest night skies imaginable. If you stray as far south as the mighty Fish River Canyon you can experience true timelessness, where this ancient feature on The Earth’s crust began eroding 650 million years ago [*for ref. the Grand Canyon, USA is normally pegged around 6-8million years old]. All things considered, it is a fantastic place to stargaze; peering through the astral history of the cosmos.
ROYAL CHITWAN: ROVING FOR RHINO
At 950 square kilometres in size, the prospect of exploring this vast sub-tropical broadleaf jungle had me champing at the bit. The Nepali protected zone is a magical place, full of noise, colour and - perhaps most importantly: life. The main attraction was the oft-secluded greater one-horned rhinoceros (Rhinoceros unicornis) in its natural habitat of swampy grasslands. Aside from that however, there was a huge diversity of other animals to observe on foot, in jeep or in handmade dugout canoe. Exciting times for sure. I can’t wait to go back there.
ANDES: CHASING THE CONDOR
Among the more taxing of expeditions, a 60km+ mountain hike through the Eastern Andes up to Glacier Grey looking for the Andean Condor. Full camping kit, camera gear, crazy weather conditions and some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world. If you like high winds and endless peaks, look no further!
NORDKAPP: MOUNTAINS AT MIDSUMMER
A 7,000 mile road trip, from London up to the Northern tip of Norway and down Finland for the midnight sun. The festivals and the insane beauty of places like the Lofoten islands were a big draw, but mostly it was my love affair with mountains. Sweden and Norway both have rough camping law, meaning you can camp anywhere in the wild, and the 24 hour sunshine in June made wildlife photography a constant, if somewhat surreal possibility.
ROAD TRIP: WAY OUT WEST
The archetypal Great American Road Trip, roaming around The West from Utah to Montana. Mountains, canyons and huge tracts of wilderness in between. I spent some of my formative years living in The US when I was a wee bairn, so going back is exciting every time for me. Although I’m taller now, the landscapes never seem any smaller by comparison.
KHAO YAI: RAINFOREST IN DROUGHT
Thailand recently had one of the longest, most severe droughts in their history; quite the time to take full gear trekking through Khao Yai National Park. I arranged for a wildlife guide and park ranger escorts that led us out into the restricted areas and into the deep jungle. We slept under the stars and trekked down bone dry river beds looking for animals. We spent long days sweating and even longer nights safariing through the bush. Sun bear sow with cubs, dhole, hornbill, jungle elephant, gibbon and plethora of deer and macaque!
AILSA CRAIG: CRUISING THE CLYDE
The Ailsa Craig is a standalone volcanic island, home to 36,000 breeding gannets, this alone is enough to tempt me to sea. Lucky to be onboard a newly-repurposed trawler with my family, we cruised the Firth of Clyde for some days until we got to explore the 99 hectare island. It is also home to black guillemots, razorbills and of course: the puffins. The weather (and light) were spectacular for Scotland in April, and made the trip that much more special.
RAJASTHAN: TRIP THROUGH TIME
It really was like stepping into the past. Some aspects of the great state of Rajasthan are roaringly modern, and the pace of life ever-quickens. In others, facets are left stranded, steeped in the history that makes the area such a romantic fantasy. I had buckets of vibrant experiences, some good, some bad. As most people will tell you with a trip to this part of India, it is pretty overwhelming. Highly recommended if you can stomach it.
